Feature Guide
Published: 2026-05-01 Updated: 2026-05-24
Rivets are the metal studs punched into Levi's pocket corners and crotch area. They were at the core of the 1873 jeans patent and have been used to maintain jeans strength ever since. Rivet placement, type, and material changed over the decades, functioning as multiple dating points. Main rivet types: crotch rivet (at crotch), back pocket rivets (front and back faces), coin pocket rivet, front pocket rivets. Rivets are less well-known than red tab or care label but are important supplementary indicators that can identify eras (especially around 1937 and WWII period) that other indicators cannot pinpoint. Verifying that multiple rivet points agree on the same era improves dating accuracy.
The crotch rivet is a metal stud at the button fly base (the uppermost crotch point). It existed before 1937 but was discontinued that year after complaints that it pressed against the body when sitting — legend holds that a camp fire incident prompted a consultant's recommendation to eliminate it. Crotch rivet present → confirmed pre-1937. This is a very strong indicator; combined with other dating points (Big E, care label, selvedge) enables further precision. The 501's button fly makes it relatively easy to check, while zipper-fly models may be harder to examine. Crotch-rivet examples are rare survivors, commanding high value in good condition.
Back pocket rivets have three specifications by era. Exposed rivets (visible from outside of back pocket) → pre-1937. Hidden rivets (visible only from inside the back pocket, not from outside) → 1937–1964. Bartack (no rivet, reinforced by stitching only) → post-1964–1966. Knowing this change enables identifying the two key 1937 and 1964 dating divides. How to check: open the inside of the back pocket. If you can see rivet bumps on the inside face, those are hidden rivets (1937–1964). If they protrude from the outside, exposed rivets (pre-1937). If neither inside nor outside, bartack (post-1964). Bartack is a fine zigzag stitch reinforcement method still used on modern jeans.
The coin pocket (small pocket inside the right front pocket) rivet was eliminated during WWII. No coin pocket rivet → possible 1942–1947 (WWII era, S501XX). However, since it was also eliminated in later spec changes, combining with other WWII-era features (paint arcuate, iron rivets, etc.) is essential for confirmation. The coin pocket rivet is smaller than standard rivets and located near the coin pocket opening. To check: open the right front pocket and examine the coin pocket perimeter — check visually and by touch for a metal stud. If multiple WWII-era features are present, S501XX becomes more likely — this would be an ultra-rare piece warranting expert consultation.
Rivet material and stamps are supplementary dating indicators. Copper with raised/convex lettering → pre-1960s. Copper with recessed/lowered lettering → post-1966. Iron rivets (silver-gray, rust-prone) → 1942–1947 (WWII era). Rivet stamps (mainly for front buttons): 'crowned arrow' stamp → late 1930s–1960s. 'L.S. & Co. S.F. Cal.' stamp → 1930s–1960s. How to check: photograph the coin pocket rivet head up close; angled light makes the relief/recess stand out. WWII-era (1942–1947) iron rivets respond to a magnet — a magnet test is useful (copper does not respond to magnets).
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