Model Guide
501XX refers to the earliest Levis 501 models produced until around 1954. 'XX' was an internal designation for the highest-quality double-X denim, now a collector term for the most valuable early models. The 501XX represents the pinnacle of the vintage Levis market, with well-preserved examples trading from hundreds of thousands to millions of yen. Surviving examples are extremely scarce. Identifying genuine 501XX requires combining multiple points: red tab, care label, zipper, rivets, patch, and arcuate stitching.
Pre-1942 501XX has the finest details. Features include: leather Two Horse Brand patch, exposed back pocket rivets (pre-1937) or hidden rivets (post-1937), crotch rivet at button fly base (pre-1937), belt loops plus cinch back (1922–1937), and arcuate stitching in orange thread with high SPI. Rivets show "crowned arrow" stamps or "L.S. & Co. S.F. Cal." markings. Zipper-fly associated models (505 predecessors, etc.) show Scovill, Conmar, or Eagle zipper brands.
WWII-era S501XX (S=Simplified) simplified many details for metal conservation. The most distinctive feature is arcuate replaced by orange paint — by now almost entirely worn off, leaving plain back pockets. Crotch rivet, coin pocket rivet, and cinch back were eliminated. Some examples show iron rivets substituting for copper. "Laurel leaf" donut-style buttons are characteristic of this period. WWII-era S501XX in good condition is valued at $6,000+, treated as an ultra-rare piece.
1947–1954 501XX saw the return of pre-war specs. Arcuate stitching returned to thread construction, leather patch continued, hidden back pocket rivets (1937–1964), and Big E (both sides uppercase) tab. Arcuate uses orange thread at high SPI (10–11) with slight period-characteristic irregularity. Rivets are copper with raised/convex lettering (pre-1960s). Collectors call these "Post-war 501XX" — leather patch + Big E tab + no care label + selvedge together represent maximum valuation.
From around 1955, the leather patch was replaced by Jacron (leather-like cardboard), but the 'Every Garment Guaranteed' slogan continued, with Big E tab, no care label, and selvedge unchanged. The slogan was removed in 1962, closing the 501XX era. The XX suffix continued through this period, with collectors sometimes distinguishing these as 'Late XX.' TALON 42 zipper (on 505 etc.) + Big E tab + Jacron patch is the typical detail combination.
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