Model Guide
While Levis 501 features a button fly, multiple zipper-fly models emerged from 1967 onward. The most notable are the 505 (straight, 1967+), 517 (bootcut, late 1960s+), 646 (bellbottom, 1970s), and 578 (flare, 1970s). These models benefit from zipper-brand dating — an identification point unavailable on the 501. The progression Scovill/Conmar (pre-1950s) → TALON 42 (1950s–60s) → TALON no 42 (late 60s–early 70s) → YKK (post-1970s) applies to all zipper-fly models.
The 505 debuted in 1967 as the zipper-fly 501. The silhouette is nearly straight with a slightly lower rise and slimmer impression. Big E era (1967–1971) examples carry the '70505' model number with TALON 42 or TALON zipper. Dating: TALON 42 = 1950s–60s (pre-505 related models), TALON = late 60s–early 70s, YKK = post-1970s. 70505s with Big E tab + no care label + selvedge command the highest premiums. As a rare Big E zipper-fly model, the 505 holds the second most coveted collector status after the 501.
The 517 features a subtle bootcut silhouette flaring slightly toward the hem. Born from cowboy/country culture of the late 1960s, it also tied into hippie fashion. 1970s 517s are often orange tab with a high-waist profile. 1990s versions shifted to mid-rise with changed proportions. The degree of flare helps date the era. Combining with zipper brand (TALON = pre-early 70s, YKK = post-1970s) enables more precise dating.
The 646 features a dramatic bellbottom silhouette flaring dramatically below the knee — the defining model of 1970s disco and groove culture. Primarily released in the budget orange tab line (less expensive than red tab at the time), collector interest has grown significantly for its distinctive silhouette. Most examples use YKK zippers, with care label 3-digit or 4-digit codes narrowing down manufacturing month and year. Selvedge + orange tab + YKK zipper combination suggests an early 1970s example.
The 578 is a 1970s flare-cut model less extreme than the 646 bellbottom, offering a more wearable flare. Surviving examples are scarce, making it one of the rarer vintage models. While less recognized than the 501, 505, or 517, it's a premium piece for those in the know. Most use YKK zippers, with care label presence and selvedge distinguishing early from late 1970s. Outseam overlock stitch color (orange = 1981–84, white = 1985–93) also serves as a supplementary dating indicator.
505: straight, zipper, 1967+, Big E=70505, collector rating ★★★★★. 517: bootcut, zipper, late 1960s+, cowboy/hippie culture, ★★★☆☆. 646: bellbottom, zipper, 1970s, mainly orange tab, disco culture, ★★★☆☆. 578: flare, zipper, 1970s, scarce, ★★★★☆. Common verification points: zipper brand (core dating tool), selvedge presence, care label presence, tab color, outseam overlock stitch color.
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