Model Guide
Published: 2026-05-31
The 506XX (Type I) and 507XX (Type II) are among the rarest surviving Levi's jackets. The 506XX was produced for roughly 17 years (1936–1953); the 507XX for just 9 years (1953–1962). Surviving examples that have lasted 80–90 years are scarce, and those in good condition are rarer still. Jackets see more wear, repair, and disposal than jeans, meaning market appearances are extremely infrequent. The "XX" suffix reflects early Levi's numbering conventions — a marker of the oldest-era specification. When Type I or II listings do appear, their high prices attract fakes and misidentifications, making careful authentication essential.
The defining feature of the 506XX is a single chest pocket — left side only. The absence of a right chest pocket enables instant Type I identification. Early examples sometimes have a wool blanket lining inside, though few survive. The waist has a distinctive curve that flares slightly toward the hem. Post-1936 examples carry Big E specification; a cinch back strap on the rear indicates a pre-1937 ultra-early piece. Zippers transitioned through Scovill, Conmar, and TALON — a "TALON 42" stamp indicates a mid-1950s example. Hidden back pocket rivets (visible only from inside) appear from 1937 onward. Jacron patches (leather-look cardboard) start in 1954; earlier examples have genuine leather patches. Leather patch + Big E + Scovill/Conmar zipper is the trifecta indicating earliest-era Type I.
The 507XX is the Type I successor — the Type II — debuting in 1953. Key differences from Type I: two chest pockets and accordion-style double pleats at the waist. Pleats fold inward when worn and appear flat, so check by turning the jacket inside out and examining near the hem. Production ran roughly 9 years (1953–1962) — all examples carry Big E or earlier specification. TALON 42 zippers are standard for the early period; later examples overlap with transition to unnumbered TALON. The Jacron patch transition (1954) falls mid-production, making leather-patch examples (c.1953–1954) especially rare within Type II. The blanket lining was eliminated in Type II — if a 507XX has interior lining, it may be a later addition.
LVC (Levi's Vintage Clothing) produces reproductions of both Type I and II, making authentication essential. The first check is the care label: any "LEVIS VINTAGE CLOTHING" text immediately identifies it as LVC. LVC also shows a country of manufacture (often "MADE IN JAPAN") on the care label. The tab is next, but LVC also uses Big E tabs — tab alone cannot distinguish them. Cross-check the zipper pull stamp, natural metal oxidation, thread color fading, and button shank factory code. Original Type I & II hardware shows appropriate oxidation and patina. Button or zipper hardware that looks too new suggests replacement. Also check whether the thread around the tab attachment has aged consistently with the tab itself — a tab that looks unnaturally fresh on aged fabric suggests transplantation.
Type I & II market value varies significantly by era, condition, and size. General ranges (good condition): 506XX (Type I) ¥300,000–¥2,000,000+; examples with cinch back, leather patch, and surviving blanket lining command the highest premiums. 507XX (Type II) ¥200,000–¥1,000,000+; leather-patch examples (c.1953–54) carry additional premiums. Pre-purchase essentials: ①pocket configuration (Type I: left only, Type II: two pockets + pleats), ②tab/zipper/patch era consistency, ③care label presence and content (if present: post-1971 or LVC), ④natural thread aging and patina, ⑤size tag format (varies by era). Type I & II are perpetually coveted in the vintage market. When authentication is uncertain, consult a specialist or purchase from a reputable domestic vintage dealer where you can inspect in person.
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